The waves will always come, but you have the option to learn how surf. Surfing goes beyond a simple sport. It is a relationship that perfectly balances the human and natural world. In the 1800’s, people were captivated by this unique connection between ocean and humans. The younger generation is becoming more and more interested in this activity, which makes it easier to connect with Mother Nature.
The boards are made for a variety of reasons, including to improve the connection between the surfer and the earth. Cruziers or longboards have been designed to provide a smooth ride. (Types Of Surfboards). You can ride them in a variety of ways, including backwards and even on your hands. The Fish is designed to speed ride small waves. These boards provide a high-speed rush, allowing the rider to feel the ocean’s charge. The last board you will see is a short board or thruster. These boards have become popularized by movies. Short boards have been designed to be precise, powerful, and controlled. This board is perfect for riding a big wave. It is often determined by the type of wave a surfer will ride that they choose the board.
Surfing offers a variety of unique waves. In surfing movies and surf videos, the most powerful waves are those that break on reefs like the North Shore. Pipelines are created when reef breaks occur. This allows skilled surfers to glide their boards safely through these pipelines using all the muscles in their bodies. These pipelines can bring out fear, curiosity, and excitement at the same moment. The waves can be unforgiving and wild. But if they are ridden perfectly, it is a unique experience.
The beachbreak is another popular type of wave. (Know what you’re surfing). The wave breaks onto the sand of a beach. Beach breaks allow barrel surfing, which makes for a more peaceful and calm ride. It is safe to learn how to surf in this environment, as it provides a protected environment if you wipe out. Some places, like Hossegor in Southern France can ride these waves up to 20 feet. Surfers often swarm these waves at popular beaches and surf schools. This activity not only connects people, but also nature. They can have a blast and learn about nature. The barrels can be used to teach children and also get people interested in the ocean.
In 2006 it was proposed that a road be built through Trestles, which is also known as Yosemite in surfing. The Southern California surf community was aware that commercializing nature in the name of selfish capitalism would be a bad idea. Surfers, environmental activists and local businesses joined forces to prevent what could have been the beginning of the end of the State Parks system. The construction of this toll-road would have cost millions in tax dollars and would have destroyed numerous eco-systems and polluted Southern California’s air. Together, these people attended rallies and spoke to government officials to protect nature that they loved and cared for so much. The love for the ocean at Trestles and the specific waves would not exist if the riders and the waves did not form a relationship.
Surfing has grown in popularity among those who don’t respect nature enough, which has caused a lot of upset within the surfing community. Many cars and phone booths in beach towns like Santa Cruz have bumper stickers reading “Don’t Try Surfing, It Sucks”. These bumper stickers aim to stop surfing being exploited. Surfers are concerned that the ocean will not become commercialized, where surfers can compete for sponsorships or money. Many people want to compete at the pro level in order to be sponsored, earn money and win titles. The nature of surfing is being ruined by this. It is meant to bring the people closer to oceans and the environment.
Surfing will always be beautiful, regardless of whether someone is learning to ride a barrel off the California coast or riding a thruster in a pipeline near the Australian coast. It’s dangerous but it is well worth it when you get the satisfaction of a great ride. Surfing teaches that you can create amazing memories by working with nature instead of fighting it.
